Wednesday, 15 May 2013

"In The Rigging" T-shirt DIY

This summer, like most summers in memory, nautical trends seem to be dominating magazine spreads. I'd seen a lot of anchor-print tops and scarves in shops, but none were quite right for me - either they had lace or cutouts in funny places, or the designer had gone overboard with the diamantés, or they were navy and subsequently too similar to my old school uniform (never again!)

For a long time I'd wanted to try stencilling clothes with freezer paper, so this seemed like the ideal chance. Armed with a cheap stripy t-shirt (black and white, not navy this time) and a roll of the paper, I freehanded my outline and got to work. I stretched my t-shirt out over a drawing board and secured it with small bulldog clips and pegs to prevent movement, and then ironed over the stencil to securely bond it to the shirt.



Once the stencil has adhered (using a steam setting on the iron helps enormously!) I dabbed the fabric paint on with a sponge - all we had was a scrubby washing-up sponge, but it did the job. Luckily, I had some silver fabric paint left over from a disastrous earlier attempt at t-shirt design. At first it went on thinly and the shirt's stripes were still visible in between, but additional coats took care of that. I dried each layer of paint with a hairdryer and cooled it off with the cold shot function, but that's because I'm an impatient blogger and I want my new shirt. You can wait for it to dry naturally if you're more patient than me.


Once the fabric paint is totally dry, pull gently on the edges and the freezer paper peels off to reveal clean lines. Set the paint according to the manufacturer's instructions, wash the shirt if necessary to remove any residue from the paper, and you're good to go.


I think I'll wear mine with red lipstick, jeans, black and white Vans, a black leather cuff and possibly a bandana - a little more edgy than your traditional nautical look, but why not?

p.s. 10 internet points and a virtual cookie to anyone who gets the reference in this post's title.

Thursday, 25 April 2013

Hobbit House Cross Stitch Chart

Following on from our post a couple of months ago, which featured blackwork charts for a poem from The Hobbit, written in Tengwar, we've now designed a cross stitch chart featuring Bilbo Baggin's house from The Hobbit/Lord Of The Rings films!

The chart measures 188 squares x 88, so stitched on 14ct Aida, it should measure approximately 13.5 inches by 6.5 inches, although you could leave a bigger gap at the edges, or add your own border to it.  You'll need six or seven shades of green thread for the grass and plants, four or five shades of brown/beige for the walls, window frames etc, some pale blue for the windows, grey and yellow for the lantern, colours of your choice for the flowers, small amounts of gold for the door-knob and blue for Gandalf's mark on the door. Alternatively, you could sew a small, decorative brass button in the centre of the door for the door-knob, or use seed-beads for the flowers.





Happy stitching! 

Tuesday, 12 March 2013

How To Make A Japanese Cherry Blossom Brooch/Pin

Spring is almost here again, and in London's parks the blossoms will soon be opening, and filling the trees with gorgeous pink froth like this, (taken in Kensington Gardens last spring)




Unfortunately, the blossoms don't last for long, so I decided to make a pin that would mean we could have blossoms all year round!



To make your own Japanese Cherry Blossom pin, you will need

Pink felt (2 slightly different shades)

Green felt

2 small buttons 

A 38mm brooch pin

Embroidery threads

Hot-Glue Gun

A small, plastic food carton (the sort of thing a microwaveable meal comes in)


To begin, you will need to cut 2 large, and two small flower shapes from your pink felt, and 2 backing pieces (leaves) from your green felt as shown in the templates below






Then you will need to cut a small piece from your plastic food carton, that will fit inside the backing pieces to stiffen it, leaving a big enough border around the edges for you to be able to blanket-stitch the two pieces together comfortably. 

Now you're ready to begin assembling your pin



Arrange the two layers of pink felt one on top of the other and chain-stitch up the centre of each of the five petals, through both layers of felt



Then add your button at the centre  (I was lucky enough to have some vintage flower buttons from the 1950's that somebody had given me, but any buttons will do)


Next, sew your brooch-pin onto the back of one of your green pieces (I've used two different colour greens, so it's easier to differentiate each piece, but you can use 2 the same colour)



I like to finish mine off by covering the stitching with a piece of matching felt, or ribbon, which I attach with the hot-glue gun


Next, use the hot glue gun to fix the piece of plastic to the other piece of green felt, then once the glue has cooled, add more glue to the top of the plastic piece and carefully position the second layer on top



Blanket stitch around the edges of the backing



Then position your two blossoms on the backing, overlapping them slightly, carefully glue into position, and once the glue has set your pin is ready to wear!


You could try other colour variations too, maybe white on white, white/pink, or maybe magenta and cerise, like this one...



Or, alternatively, use blue felt to create Love-in-a-mist (Nigella) flowers, using loops of ribbon stitched into place on the top backing layer to represent the fern-like leaves of the plant, then gluing the flowers into place on top. 






The pins shown in this tutorial are currently for sale in our Etsy shop (at time of posting) https://www.etsy.com/shop/StarShapedAndShiny?ref=si_shop with all profits being donated to the Blue Cross animal charity

Tuesday, 19 February 2013

Tengwar (Elvish) Sampler, Inspired By The Hobbit

Have you seen The Hobbit yet? I have. Twice. And one of the things that struck me about it, much as with the Lord Of The Rings trilogy, was the beauty of the production design. Every element of every costume and set is designed and worked carefully in minute detail - Peter Jackson's film-making techniques are a revelation and his attention-to-detail is legendary.
It's not surprising, then, that I'm inspired by the look of the films and the books to create something just as beautiful. Below you'll find my effort; Tolkien's Misty Mountains poem, rendered in Elvish (Tengwar) script. The border is taken from the outfit of one dwarf member of Thorin's party - five Internet points to the first person to identify which one!


Far over the misty mountains cold
To dungeons deep and caverns old
We must away ere break of day
To seek our pale enchanted gold

Below is a Tengwar alphabet and key which you could also sew as a sampler, or use to make name-plates, personalise other projects, or write your own passages in Tengwar!





Thursday, 14 February 2013

Sock-Cats and Dogs - Make Soft Toys From Socks



This is another simple, inexpensive  project that is relatively quick to make, and a great way to spend a rainy afternoon with older children. You will need:

A pair of ladies ankle-socks (preferably new!)
Some hollowfibre filling
Some scraps of felt
Embroidery threads

When choosing socks to make your kitten/puppy, try and find a pair that has a simple repetitive pattern (flowers, stripes) and that is patterned all over the foot. Many socks only have the pattern on the top of the foot, not the sole, and the sole part will form the back of the animal, and be the most visible part of your toy.

This tutorial will initially show how to make a cat, variations will be shown at the end. To start, turn the socks inside out, and lay them flat, as in the picture below.




With the first sock, pin and sew the front and back legs as shown, remembering to leave a gap between the back legs so that you can turn your toy right way out and stuff it.





Do not cut the sock until after you have sewn the seams. 



Turn right-side out, ready to stuff



Take the second sock and pin/sew the ears and the top of the head. Then cut straight across the sock, underneath the heel, and turn right side out.





Stuff both parts with the hollowfibre filling. Do a small amount at a time, and make sure to push it right into the ends of the legs, ears etc, using the blunt end of a pencil or knitting needle if necessary. The sock will hold a lot more filling than you think, and will stretch as you stuff it. 





When the body and head are nice and full, neatly sew up the hole between the back legs and sew a running stitch around the 'neck' at the bottom of the head. Draw the running stitch tight, adding any extra filling that may be appear to be needed before finally sewing the neck closed. Roll the body and head between the palms of your hands to help the stuffing settle evenly.





Position the head just above the point where the front legs meet, and begin to sew it to the body. I usually do about four or five circuits of the neck and head, sewing each successive circuit slightly further out, anchoring it more securely, and stopping it from wobbling about too much.



Using one of the leftover parts of the sock, sew a long, narrow section to form a tail, cut out and stuff. 



Attach to the cat's bottom in the same way as you attached the head, again, sewing around it several times to ensure it is firmly anchored (Especially important if the toy is for a young child) 



Finally, using felt, embroidery, or buttons if you prefer, add the facial features. Then all you have to do is think of a name for your new pet!



Variations.

To make a dog instead of a cat, follow exactly the same instructions for the body. For the head, you will need to make the ears longer, and almost 'rabbit shaped'. 



When you come to stuff the head, make sure no stuffing goes into the ears. Once the head is stuffed and sewn closed, fold the ears over, and pin. 



Then sew a few tiny stitches down the outside edges of the ears, to hold the folds in place.



You can try experimenting with the length and shapes of the dog-ears, to make different types of dogs, shorter, pointed ears will give it a terrier-like appearance (above right), while wider, spatulate shapes will make it look more like a labrador. (above centre) I also make the dog's tails slightly shorter and fatter than the cat's.

Rabbits. To make a rabbit (a good idea with Easter not far off) make the head and ears as for the dog, but this time, when stuffing, fill the ears as well to make them stand up. Then, instead of making a long, narrow tail, simple cut a circle of fabric from one of the leftover parts of the second sock, sew a running-stitch around the outside, then pull the thread tight, stuffing the tail as you do so. This will form a small 'bobble' bunny-tail which you can then sew on, as for the cat and dog.

You can even use the leftover parts of the socks to make things, I quickly stitched and stuffed one of the sock-tops to make a pin-cushion (or you could even add some dried catnip to the stuffing and make a toy for your real cat!)






Tuesday, 29 January 2013

Going Soft-Hearted For Valentine's Day...

It's that time of year again, Christmas and New Year have passed, January has almost finished, and February can only mean one thing...Valentine's Day! Hearts and flowers and love in the air...Hearts are everywhere, in jewellery, accessories, fabric design, home decor, and crafting - especially in crafting!

I found these two gorgeous heart designs in a French cross-stitch design book Coeurs : Broderie traditionnelle et au point de croix by Agnès Delage-Calvet &  Anne Sohier-Fournel, http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/250107761X/ref=cm_sw_em_r_am_it_ws_gb?ie=UTF8 and adapted them as the centre panels for two cushions (as you may have noticed, I love cushions!)

The first design is worked in one colour on a contrasting background, and is a large heart made of other tiny hearts, no two are the same. One features a dove, another has roses and the centre, another has a bow, some have beading incorporated into them, but  they are all gorgeous, and the overall effect is stunning. I designed my own 'lace heart' border to frame the main heart, frayed the edges of the Aida, and then appliqued it on to a toning gingham cushion cover, adding a wooden button in each corner of the panel...and yes, even the buttons were heart-shaped!






The back of the cushion cover simply overlaps, and is secured with metal poppers, covered over with more heart shaped buttons, so there was no fiddling around trying to fit a zip (because although I know how to do it in theory, it never quite seems to work out as it should!)

And this is the same basic design, in a different colour.




The second cushion I call my  'Love Letters' cushion. The heart on this one is comprised of every letter of the alphabet, in a different font style. I chose a range of eight or nine colours of a similar palette - in this case, browns, coppers, and spicy ginger colours, on a cream background, and worked 2 or 3 letter in each shade.




This design ends up more rectangular than the previous one, which is pretty much square, so I decided to make it look like an actual letter, and added the outline of an envelope in a colour slightly darker than the aida I was using, so the effect was quite subtle and didn't overpower the heart. I made the cover from some recycled cotton fabric, which gave it a rustic look,  made the opening in the same way as the first cushion, and then just sewed the cross-stitched panel into the centre - and I it!




These designs can be worked in any combination of colours to suit your decor, and once you've stitched the panels, you can turn them into almost anything, bags, wall-hangings, anything you like. So why not make yourself a Valentine's gift this year as well?

Thursday, 24 January 2013

Beautiful Biscornu - Our Original 'English Wildflowers' Design

 A year ago, I had no idea what a biscornu was  (If you’d asked me, I’d have probably thought it was some fancy French pastry and expected to eat it) – and now I know,  I’m designing my own!

Traditionally, biscornu were made and used as pin-cushions, although many people will now add some dried lavender to the stuffing, and attach a ribbon so that they can be hung in wardrobes to scent your clothes, while others just like them for the curiosities that they are, and keep them as purely decorative objects.

I first saw them during a trip the Stitch & Craft show in London last spring – a tall glass cabinet full of them; some that would fit into the palm of your hand, and others that were almost big enough to be used as footstools! I was fascinated by them, not just because of the beautiful designs, but the shape too – I just couldn’t imagine how you could make something that looked like that without a degree in geometry or a miracle... but actually, it’s not as complicated as I thought it might be.

These are the first two biscornu I made – I can’t remember where I found the first pattern from, but it was a fairly easy one to begin with, as it only uses one colour!

The lavender one on the right was made from a pattern designed by Rainburst Embroidery.





So, having made some designed by other people, I decided to try making my own design, and here it is – The English Wildflower biscornu....




It’s sewn mainly in shades of pink and green, and depicts English wild flowers, great willow-herb, with beaded centres, and also wild honeysuckle. I made mine using 14ct Aida, and the finished biscornu measures approx. 10.5cms across, although it could be made smaller by stitching it on 16 or 18ct Aida.


You Will Need:

Two squares of 14ct Aida, approx 6” square
8 colours of embroidery thread (see chart below for colour suggestions)
Small amount of stuffing
2 decorative buttons
Seed beads (optional)

Thread suggestions



Fold your squares of Aida into quarters to find the centre point, then count out from the centre to begin stitching. All stitching uses 2 strands of thread, and both sides of the biscornu are worked identically.



Once you have completed the main part of the design, make a running stitch border around the outside, using 2 strands of thread. This will form the seam of the biscornu  when you assemble it




If you want to add any seed beads to the design, do so now, knotting the thread securely (I put a small white seed bead at the centre of each pink flower)

Now you can start to assemble the biscornu.

Trim the excess aida from all sides, leaving a margin of 3 or 4 squares outside your outline. This will make turning the corners a lot easier.
Using the same colour thread as you used for the running-stitch outline, attach the corner point of one face to the central point at one side of the other face, and begin to whip-stitch the two sides together.



 You do not need to sew through the fabric, just take the needle under each of the running stitches in the outline


By the time you reach the next corner, it should look like this




Making sure the central points are exactly aligned, turn the corner and continue in whip-stitch.

As you progress around the sides, the biscornu will begin to take shape





When you are 7/8 of the way round, stop sewing and begin to fill with stuffing through the remaining opening.

Use the blunt end of a pencil or knitting needle to push the stuffing firmly into the corners, to ensure your biscornu has its distinctive shape. You will need to pack the stuffing in quite tightly. When you are finished stuffing, sew the opening shut, and secure tightly




Next you need to form a ‘dimple’ to sew your buttons into. You may like to find a volunteer to help with this part, as an extra pair of hands will be very useful!

Using a neutral colour thread, and a long needle, make a stitch at the centre of the top face of the biscornu and knot it tightly. Then, using either your free hand or your volunteer, squeeze the middle of the biscornu as tightly as possible,  insert the needle back into the centre, and out again at the centre point of the bottom face. Pull the thread as tightly as you can, and secure. Repeat at least twice more. (It is possible to attach buttons at the same time, but I find it easier to do it in two stages)



You should now have a well defined dimple top and bottom

Now repeat the process, using all 6 strands of a piece of embroidery thread for extra strength, and attaching the buttons as you go.

Make at least three passes through the biscornu and the shanks of the buttons, before knotting off the thread (It may be easier to change back to your smaller needle to knot the thread)




Snip off the remaining thread – the knot should be hidden under the face of the button as it sits in the centre dimple – and you’re finished!